Why I hate the wellness industry but make an exception for bathing in thermal water

A guide to pampering Sardinia-style

Me at the San Saturnino thermal pool in 2018

I don’t have much truck with the wellness industry or the idea that perfection only comes in the form of restrictive diets, punishing exercise regimes, gimmicky cures and unattainable beauty.

And don’t get me started on all the articles that get published in January about rebooting your life. But that could be because for me this month hasn’t been about resetting the clock and making unfulfillable New Year’s Resolutions. I don’t want to become a brand new person by the end of 2024, thank you very much. I’m very happy with who I am. Why would I want to get bogged down in a self-improvement project when I can spend that time indulging in things that make me feel good, like long walks along the beach, swims in the sea, leisurely cups of coffee, and catch ups with friends over carbs?

Then again, I’m also the sort of person that goes for active but restful holidays rather than organising everything on a spreadsheet and adopting an itinerary that is so packed it requires military precision. Going with the flow is far more appealing to me than booking everything in advance, charging around and getting to the final day frazzled and depleted.

However, there is one wellness practice I do prescribe to. Every six weeks or so I’ll soak in one Sardinia’s thermal baths. They are dotted all over the island. Some are slick hotel structures, others are nothing more than a pool dug into the ground and surrounded by countryside. But just as you should never judge a book by its cover or an Italian restaurant by its shabby, paint-peeling exterior, don’t ever make the mistake of thinking the feel-good factor is only available in upmarket spas.

I’m not the only one to indulge on a regular basis. Italy takes its thermal bathing culture seriously. So much so that Italian residents are entitled to one cycle of treatments per year on the country’s national health service for the bargain price of €55. So many medical conditions fall under the free treatment list, such as asthma, circulatory problems; ear, nose and throat illnesses; Parkinson’s; fibromyalgia; MS; and arthritic and rheumatic issues.

If I’m not taking advantage of Italy’s healthcare, where I go all depends on how flush I’m feeling and what I’m having to pay out for at that particular time. If the money’s tight, I’ll go to one of the natural geothermal pools or rivers, cocooning myself in both the hot water and the countryside for free. When I’ve got a bit more cash, or the thermal hotels have special offers, I’ll book myself in for a day or an overnight stay. Whichever one I opt for, relaxation and rejuvenation are guaranteed.

Read on for my guide on thermal baths in Sardinia